February 2006 Wine of the Month

Etienne-Rodier 2003 Pinot Noir

Winery-At the beginning of the 20th century, Etienne Rodier established himself as a wine merchant. Etienne had a fine palate and became highly respected in Burgundy. He died fairly young and his son, Camille Rodier, who created the famous Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, took over. The wines from Etienne Rodier are famous for their elegance and their finesse. As reflected by the worldwide recognition their wines routinely receive, their passion for viticulture and winemaking continues undiminished in the current generation.

Region-Vin de Pays or "country wines" came about in 1989 as a way of producing French table wine that displayed the broadest characteristics of the region's greatest wines. The idea was to create a drinkable wine with rustic charm. However, the Vin de Pays system, which had fewer restrictions than the AOC system (top rung in the French wine-quality system), encouraged creative winemakers to produce wines in a way that they felt best expressed their terroir. In doing so, they managed to equal and occasionally surpass the quality of wine produced by the more famous local appellations. The grapes that make up the Etienne-Rodier 2003 Pinot Noir come from the Vin de Pays d'Oc, located in the Languedoc region in the south of France, stretching from the southeastern border of Spain to just beyond the city of Nimes. The Mediterranean influenced climate is ideal for grape vines. The Languedoc is the third largest wine region in France and is one of great variety, ranging from wide sandy beaches on the Mediterranean coast to steep hills holding countless lakes. The soil type varies from chalk, shale, gravel, and boulders. The wide variation in landscape accounts for an incredible mosaic of different terroirs and vineyards.

The Wine-Many wine drinkers believe that it is better to purchase a moderately priced Vin de Pays than to purchase a cheap AOC wine. The 2003 Etienne-Rodier Pinot Noir stands testament to this. Etienne-Rodier has taken a renowned grape from the south of France and produced a supple and well-balanced wine that has all the qualities of a fully matured Pinot.

Tasting Profile-This is an easy and elegant Pinot Noir showing aromas of wild cherries; on tasting, the flavors of red fruits are delightful and round.

Food Pairing-This Pinot Noir pairs well with roasted turkey or pork tenderloin, stuffed chops or grilled steaks. As a starter, pair this wine with Brie or Neufchatel.

Pierre Olivier Bourgogne Blanc 2004 Chardonnay

Winery-Pierre Olivier was the eldest son of a family whose vineyards had long been established in Burgundy. Early in his career, he became the cellar master for an important negociant in Burgundy. During this time, Pierre began to collect his own stock of premier Crus and unique village wines. These wines were hidden during and survived World War II. At the conclusion of the war, Pierre began to sell these wines to customers and further established his reputation as having an excellent nose and palate for the selection of outstanding wines.

Region-The famed wines of Burgundy owe their reputations to the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. Unlike wines from other regions, Burgundy wines are not blended; rather, each wine is made from 100% of the named grapes. Throughout Burgundy there are terroirs with chalk, marl, clay, stony ground, and iron. The hard winters and hot summers together with the soil give Burgundy wines the individual characteristics and personality that they are known for.

The Wine-This Bourgogne Blanc comes from one of the most highly regarded appellations of Burgundy. This Chardonnay is aged in oak for those who enjoy full white Burgundies.

Tasting Profile-This Chardonnay is elegant and supple, showing delicious fruits, aromas, and hints of oak. Fresh and well balanced, with enough structure for aging, the wine unfolds in the glass and exudes a complex bouquet. Luscious apple and pineapple fruit scents are interwoven with smoky earth and wildflower nuances. Clean and pure on the palate it accentuates the ripe apple fruit and creamy butter richness. The finish is long, intriguing and dry.

Food Pairing-All elements of this wine are enhanced by food-shellfish, veal picatta, roasted chicken, Cheddar and Gloucester cheeses.

Recipe to accompany the Pierre Olivier 2004 Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay
Mussels in Thyme Bourgogne Blanc

This sophisticated, elegant first course is actually quick and simple to prepare. So enjoy it with friends.

1 cup Pierre Olivier Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 shallots, minced
1 teaspoon thyme
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons heavy cream
½ cup cold butter, cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
48 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
3 cups water

In a saucepan, whisk together wine, vinegar, shallots, thyme, and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer until mixture is reduced to ¼ cup. Whisk in cream and bring to a simmer. Remove saucepan from heat. Whisk in butter, one piece at a time, until all butter is incorporated. Stir in chives and keep barely warm. Do not let simmer or sauce will separate. In large pot, combine mussels and water. Cover pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Steam for about 3 minutes until mussels open. Discard any mussels that do not open. With a slotted spoon, remove mussels and divide into six bowls. Spoon a little sauce into the mussels and serve immediately.
Serves 6

This recipe was taken from Leslie Mansfield's book, Recipes from the Vineyards of Northern California, available for purchase at Joy wine and Spirits.