Abundant aromas of crumbly red apple on the nose, the 2020 Ecume from Julien Altaber's Sextant abounds with pleasant leesy notes. The Vin Mousseux, as Altaber prefers to call his PetNat, has flavors of fine pastry, biscuits and butter, with a spoonful of apricot jam and a sprig of sage for garnish.