Eric Nicolas farms biodynamically in the Coteaux du Loir, a cool, northern Loire Valley outpost. “Le Rouge Gorge” is pure Pineau d’Aunis from old vines on flinty clay soils, vinified with native yeasts and minimal sulfur. Whole-cluster fermentation and aging in used barrels preserve the grape’s spice and lift. A precise, peppery expression of a rare variety from one of its finest stewards.