The latest rendition of Rodez's NV Ambonnay Cuvée des Crayeres wafts from the glass with an attractive bouquet of red apples, mint, anise and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and ample, with brisk acids and a youthfully frothy mousse. Open-knit but nicely defined, it's a charming, expressive wine.