The 2021 Elevation 434 Crémant de Bourgogne Extra Brut from Boris Champy smells a little like an oriental bazaar: dried fruit such as dried apricots and pears, plus the slightly oxidative notes of sliced apples, honeydew melon and orange blossom water. Shortbread biscuits and candied lemon peel alongside a cup of freshly brewed Darjeeling, beeswax and quince jelly.