This is of course a radical departure for Gimonnet, a Club monoterroir. It hails from 54% Terres de Noël and Brulis, 23% Champs Nérons (chalk) and 23% Fondy (limestone). It’s a sexy-pants Champagne; it’s got wiggle; toasted brioche, allspice, sautéed peaches, but what really makes this fly is the underlying mineral, and a fascinating note of quince that taps your shoulder .