From a stash in their cellars in Bairrada, Caves São João has released several older vintages, including this elegant 1990. It’s a classic taste of Portugal: delicate notes of strawberry, roasted fennel, dark, woodsy mushrooms and powerfully gripping tannins. Those tannins have the rasp of a sand dollar, the perfect counterpoint for leitão, the crisp-skinned roast suckling pig