This blend of Spätburgunder, Cabernet Dorio, Dornfelder, Portugieser is surprisingly deep and intense, with spicy dark fruit, crunchy acidity and a decent whack of tannin in the finish. Yet given a year or two in bottle, and even a warm year starts to take on a lithe minerality – somehow, in Jochen’s hands, it turns out that even Dornfelder can show terroir. Who knew?