Bertrand Dugat described his Charmes-Chambertin as ‘like a rose that’s about to open’, and it was certainly reticent during my two tastings at the domaine. Its brooding bouquet of red and black fruit, earth and roast espresso, framed by mild reduction, is followed by an ample, full-bodied wine with the juicy energy that characterises all of the Dugat 2016s.